Wednesday, April 11, 2018

Along the Danube, Stark Viticulture Differences


I recently paid yet another homage to the infamous "gruner", das ist Gruner Veltliner...

Along the Danube towards the Alps and Alto Adige of Italy lay hectares of vines of an easy sipping, austere, and nuanced varietal called: Gruner Veltliner. This is early pickings of summer fruit and the little green berries produce a knock out wine.


As you go west towards Italy, the grapes evolve from "Blauer Zweigelt", to Pinot Noir, and eventually Pinot Nero in Venezia. Stadlmann, west of Vienna, produces a gamey, barnyard hay like Pinot Noir that is voluptuous and jammy summer fruit.  I tried the 2013 vintage and was keen on learning more about Austrian wine maturity.

Rather than compete with the seductive, curvaceous, and often tannic Pinots of the 'occident', Stadlmann has chosen to release the '13 vintage to market after oak maturity in cellar. The wine is sturdy and thick for a Pinot Noir.  Eastern European wine as I consider it, has legs, pairs with hearty meat; but in all seriousness, lacks the conversational aptitude of say, a Touraine Rouge. 

1 comment:

  1. Nice. Thanks for sharing. Eastern European wines sound good

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